Reproduced from the Fall 2007/Winter 2008 issue of Napa
Sonoma Magazine:
Three to
Watch
Meet three
re-careering vintners who are making wines you need to be drinking
by Deborah Grossman
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Frostwatch
Vineyards
The new Bennett
Valley AVA in Sonoma County is one cool place, climatically speaking. On chilly
winter nights, co-owner and winemaker Brett Raven is all too familiar with the
squawk of the frost alarm propelling him outside to protect the 15-acre
vineyard with microjet sprinklers. That's how Raven settled on the name of his
vineyard, which produces outstanding Merlot in the shadow of Bennett Peak,
southeast of Santa Rosa. "Much of Bennett Valley fruit gets blended with
wine labeled Sonoma Coast or Russian River," says Diane Kleinecke, Raven's
wife and Frostwatch co-owner. "We were one of the first wineries to put
the Bennett Valley appellation on our label."
Frostwatch Merlot
displays fully ripe flavors and tannins with enough acid from long hang time
for elegance and balance. As if responding to those who think Bennett Valley is
too cool for Zinfandel, Raven's small estate production shows a restrained,
fruity vibrancy.
Raven and his
wife met as undergrads at UC Davis. Kleinecke studied plant science but became
an accountant; Raven became a lawyer. When the wine bug hit, the couple
purchased undeveloped land in Sonoma County and planted a vineyard. In 2002
they began producing their wines commercially. "The worst day in the
vineyard or winery," Raven says, "is better than the best day
lawyering."
Diane Kleinecke and Brett
Raven |